Roast Chicken and the foods of Love.

Love.

This time of year most of us think about love. We think about the ones we love and miss, the ones we love and see, the ones we love to treat and who love to treat us. I’m not simply talking here about the treat of brightly wrapped presents (although I’m not averse to a gift, to give or to get) but about all of the many ways that love can be shown. And in particular, I’m talking about foods that spell “LOVE”.

My dear departed, feisty Australian mother-in-law was not one to show her softer side so easily but I quickly cottoned on to the fact that when we landed Down Under, regardless of the soaring Christmas heat and her advancing years, a hot tray of her homemade sausage rolls or her meaty pasties (lard pastry) or her infamous rissoles quickly appeared to mark the return of her youngest son, my husband. Favourite foods from his childhood.

Similarly when I flew over to Dublin to my family home there was always my favourite brown soda bread and Kerrygold butter ready for breakfast, with a rasher or two, some Ballymaloe relish and lashings of Barry’s tea all of which my mum had made sure was available. More “LOVE” food.

I guess we all have a favourite “LOVE” food that reminds us of the special ones in our lives but if there is one universal food that immediately makes one think of love and comfort and sharing and which makes most happy just to smell it in a house, I think it has to be an excellent roast chicken. And when I mean an excellent roast chicken I’m talking crisp golden skin, juicy meat (with a good texture) and a great taste.

So at this time of year while we debate the merits of goose over turkey or beef over ham or partridge over seafood I thought I’d share with you a fail-safe way to achieve that simple golden, excellent roast chicken so that you can share this love all year round. It's kinda my Christmas gift to you. You're welcome.

I came across this method in 12 years ago when I read the then newly published Zuni Café Cookbook by the legendary San Franciscan cook, Judy Rodgers. Her signature dish of Roast Chicken and Bread Salad was something that I had been reading about in food articles ever since she had started cooking it at Zuni Café in 1987. I’ve made that dish from the long, but not-so-complicated, recipe given in the cookbook and it has always been received with singing praises and happy faces. So I do urge you to track down a copy of the cookbook, even if just for that recipe alone. The method recommended for the chicken and which I follow to this day is to salt the bird for at least 24 hours before roasting, I’ve actually left it 48 hrs salting to great effect. Now read the method, buy a bird, share the love.

1 chicken

 I always chose a free-range bird preferably, but not always, organic but apart from that I don't worry about the  breed or feed. Buy the best you can afford.

However size IS important and buy a bird in the range of 1.2 - 1.65 kg. If you need to feed more (1.65 kg will feed 4) buy another bird. The ratio of skin to flesh to fat is important and a bigger bird will be leaner, take longer to cook and not evenly cook in the intense heat needed later. The aim is to have crisp skin with every juicy bite. Size matters!

 Pat the chicken dry, untruss the bird if it is tied up (you want as much skin to blister up) and loosen the skin over the breast with your fingers to create a pocket and slip in a sprig or two of thyme (or tarragon or oregano, whatever herb you have to hand).

Salting: using a ratio of 3/4 teaspoon of an ordinary sea salt to every 454 grams of chicken, rub salt (with added pepper) all over the chicken, lightly sprinkle some inside if you wish but do make sure the thickest parts of the bird are salted generously. Twist the wing tips behind the shoulders, place in a dish, cover loosely and refridgerate for at least 24 hrs.

When ready to cook the chicken pre-heat the oven to 240 C (475F). Use a shallow flameproof roasting dish that the chicken will snugly fit into and preheat that over a medium heat.

Wipe the chicken dry (very important to prevent the chicken 'steaming' and the skin sticking) and place it, breast side up, on the dry hot roasting dish. It should sizzle. Place it in the centre of the oven.

Note: no added fats!

After 20 mins the bird should be starting to brown and if not raise the temperature until it does. You want the skin to blister. After 30 mins turn the bird over. Roast for another 10 - 15 mins (depending on size) then flip back to crisp up the breast skin which should take 5-10 mins. Total cooking time will be 45 -60 mins depending on the size.

Remove the chicken from the roasting dish to a warmed plate, cover and let rest while you make a gravy with the roasting juices (splash of wine / water, scrape the bits off as you stir over a bubbling heat, dollop of apple jelly if you have some - I did - flick of Dijon mustard. Done).

Cut up the chicken and, I dare you, try not to pull off and eat bits of crisp skin. That's for sharing. Remember? This is "Love" food, so share the love. Or not.

Yesterday was our 17th wedding anniversary so, naturally, I cooked this. X